Four original roŋoroŋo tablets from Rapa Nui (Easter Island) are currently exhibited in the permanent gallery of the musée du quai Branly-Jacques Chirac, thanks to an exceptional loan from the Congregation of the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary. These cultural treasures are covered in glyphs that have yet to be deciphered. Their dialogue with Rapa Nui pieces from the quai Branly’s collections nourishes the museum's focus on intangible cultural heritage.
Treasures of Rapa Nui (Easter Island)
Exceptional loans
Content
roŋoroŋo tablets
Writing, memory and orality
In Oceania, there is only one system of notation that is akin to writing. These so-called roŋoroŋo inscriptions are, alongside the great stone moai and wooden artworks that so seduced the Surrealists, part of the cultural treasures of Rapa Nui, also known as Easter Island. Since the late 19th century, linguists, anthropologists and other scholars have been studying the glyphs or pictograms inscribed on rare wooden tablets kohau roŋoroŋo. Around twenty of them are preserved in the world. To this day, no one knows how to read them.
Until June 2025, the Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac is benefiting from an exceptional loan from the Rome-based Congregazione dei Sacri Cuori di Gesu e di Maria (Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary Congregation) of four of these roŋoroŋo tablets of the finely twisted hair cord once coiled around the oldest of them. Visitors can now discover them in the showcase dedicated to Rapa Nui, at the heart of the Polynesian section of the museum's permanent gallery (le plateau des collections). Here, kohau roŋoroŋo dialogue with glyph-bearing artworks from the museum's collection. Placed side by side, these objects explore Rapa Nui's mnemonic practices and ritual enunciation systems, as part of the museum's focus on intangible cultural heritage. They also provide access to the latest research on these artifacts.
The new display case
Vue d'ensemble de la vitrine présentant des trésors culturels de Rapa Nui (île de Pâques)
© musée du quai Branly - Jacques Chirac, photo Julien BrachhammerMysterious glyphs
The kohau roŋoroŋo tablets are covered with glyphs, which form the remains of a notation system unique to Oceania and as yet undeciphered. Experts tell us that they were read in inverted boustrophedon - like the continuous furrows traced by an ox plowing a field. Each line was read from left to right. Then, to switch from one to the other, the tablet had to be turned 180°. The rhythm of these manipulations, the similarity of certain glyphs to those found on sacred objects or sites, and the lost meaning of these motifs suggest that these tablets were once in the hands of ritual experts. These mā'ori roŋoroŋo preserved the memory of their interpretation. They would have recorded the moon cycle, historical events, legends and chiefly genealogies, as well as magical or liturgical formulas.
Detailed description
The four original kohau roŋoroŋo and hair cord presented in the permanent gallery were acquired in the late 1860s in Rapa Nui by missionaries of the Congregation of the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary (Congregazione dei Sacri Cuori di Gesu e di Maria). Usually kept in Rome by the Congregation, they are rarely displayed to the public.
On the left-hand side of the display case, the oldest known tablet is presented next to the cord of finely twisted hair, around 15 m long, which was coiled around it in June 1869 when it was handed over to the Bishop of Tahiti, Mgr Tepano Jaussen, by the inhabitants of Rapa Nui through Father Gaspar Zuhmbohm. In this gesture, the missionaries saw the proof of the little value now accorded to kohau roŋoroŋo that no Rapa Nui inhabitant seemed to be able to read any more, as well as an allegiance to the Catholic Church. They did, however, perceive the value of the cord of human hair - a sacred material throughout Polynesia. They therefore considered this was the actual gift, of which the tablet known to specialists as the “Echancrée” was merely a spool. In Polynesia, however, objects wrapped in sacred materials such as hair and tapa (a material also found on the hair cord) are never neutral. On the contrary, ethnography in the region has recurrently emphasized their importance, in particular their role in mediating the forces specific to the world of the living and the world of the dead and gods, in ritual contexts.
The wood from which the Echancrée is made, of Podocarpus type (Orliac and Orliac, 2008), does not come from Rapa Nui. It could be driftwood. The BRAVHO 14 C Lab at the University of Bologna recently dated it to the late 15th or very early 16th century (Ferrara et al., 2024). These elements (exogenous and ancient material), as well as the fragmentary nature of the tablet, truncated at both ends and notched to accommodate a ligature, or its gift to the highest representative of the Catholic Church on the island shortly after his conversion, also point to an object of great value, like others in Polynesia.
The inscriptions show changes over time, which also contribute to this interpretation. Above all, they help specialists such as Paul Horley (2021) to better understand how such tablets were made, used and reused. One face was carefully polished before being engraved. It features 8 lines of finely incised glyphs. The reverse is rougher and shows only six lines of glyphs, larger and coarser than on the A side. It is likely that two distinct scribes, perhaps reflecting two different periods of use, produced them.
The coarser side also reveals a scribal correction. In the center of the line of pictographs that runs along the smaller of the large sides, one may notice pre-incisions do not correspond to the glyphs finally inscribed there. According to Paul Horley, it is likely that the scribe omitted a passage, which he later reinstated. In any case, they eventually superimposed new pictograms on the pre-incised glyphs. This type of correction is common in certain writing systems. The presence of pre-incisions illustrates the two-stage carving process. First, glyph outlines were quickly traced. These superficial inscriptions were then meticulously incised deeper or replaced by perfectly legible signs.
Paul Horley also highlights a passage in the center of the most carefully incised face, the rhythm of which leads him to believe that it could be a kind of magic formula rather than a chant or recitation - frequent in Polynesian liturgical practices. The sequence of six groups of just a few signs, repeated several times, suggests the articulation of brief, repetitive sounds, which are known to have a strong impact in the region's oral practices.
L’Echancrée
Carved in European ash (Fraxinus sp.) from an oar, the large tablet known in specialist literature as “Tahua”, after the artist who carved it (Jaussen 1886), and sometimes also called “La Rame” [The Oar], bears witness to the end of kohau roŋoroŋo production. By this time, their meaning had probably already been lost, linked to the dramatic depopulation of the island caused by disease and then deportation to guano quarries in Peru, between the late 18th and mid-19th centuries.
This tablet, which bears few traces of use, is cut in its proximal part, therefore amputating the text (Orliac and Orliac 2008, p. 251-252). Each side comprises 8 lines of signs. According to Paul Horley, the structured sequences found on them, as on that of Aruku Kureŋa, suggest that they encode a rhyming song.
Tahua
Named “Aruku Kureŋa” after the artist who carved it (Jaussen 1886), this tablet is asymmetrically shaped and contains almost 1,300 glyphs. It is made of mako'i wood (Thespesia populnea) (Orliac and Orliac 2008). Its convex side is glossy and features meticulous inscriptions. On the reverse, the slightly concave surface is uneven. It appears scraped and burned as if to erase an ancient text, later replaced by new glyphs. The convex side features 12 lines of pictograms, carefully delineated by the scribe before he inscribed them. The reverse counts 10 lines, which are less regular.
Aruku Kureŋa
This intact tablet is also carved from mako'i wood (Thespesia populnea). Like the previous ones, it bears the name of the artist that the missionaries wrote down (Jaussen 1886). It contains around 800 glyphs, spread over 14 lines on each side. It is distinguished by its patina and lustrous appearance, suggesting long lasting ceremonial use (Orliac and Orliac 2008, p. 255-256). According to Paul Horley (2021), it is the only known tablet to feature a lunar calendar.
Mamari
Artworks on display
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The four roŋoroŋo tablets are exhibited alongside other pieces from Rapa Nui, kept in quai Branly’s collections:
Rapa
This anthropomorphic dancing stick made of Sophora toromiro, a highly valued wood in Rapa Nui, is a recent acquisition for the musée du quai Branly – Jacques Chirac. A major type of Rapa Nui cultural object hitherto missing from French public collections, it is distinguished from other rapa by the bird engraved under one of its eyebrow. This bird figure is close to certain roŋoroŋo signs as well as petroglyphs also found on Rapa Nui.
This artwork is also a reminder of the complex historical trajectories Oceanic objects sometimes followed after their arrival in Europe. It, too, belonged to the Congregation of the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary once. The latter ceased it around 1930 to Stephen Chauvet (1885 - 1950), the physician and art collector who wrote L'Île de Pâques et ses mystères, published in 1935. After the Chauvet collection, which included a number of Rapanui objects from missionary collections, the rapa entered the collection of Parisian gallery owner Charles Ratton (1895 - 1986). It remained in private hands until its arrival at the musée du quai Branly - Jacques Chirac at the end of 2018.
- See the dancing stick in the database: N° 70.2018.4.1
Rapa (dance stick)
Moai kavakava
This sculpture is made of Sophora toromiro. The eyes of the figure are inlaid with bone and obsidian. It belongs to the moai kavakava category, associated with the spirits of the dead. The anthropomorphic glyph at the top of the head raises questions about possible links between different ritual practices on Rapa Nui.
This figure was once in the collection of Prince Roland Bonaparte (1858 - 1924).
Moai kavakava
Snuffbox
This snuffbox might have been carved in a late roŋoroŋo tablet, perhaps for a foreign visitor to the islands or by one of these. The Musée de l'Homme purchased it from the art market in 1962.
Snuffbox
Cast
This painted plaster cast illustrates twentieth-century research into roŋoroŋo, which entailed the production of numerous facsimiles. Casts and graphic transcriptions provided researchers with an easier access to objects and glyphs. The original of this tablet is kept at the British Museum in London.
It was purchased from the British Museum in 1933, and formerly belonged to the Musée de l'Homme.
The Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac holds several facsimiles of this type, including plaster copies of the kohau roŋoroŋo kept by the Congregation of the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary in Rome. Their appearance varies according to the surface treatment of the plaster, which could be painted or left rough for example.
- Illustrations: 71.1933.27.4.1 and 71.1933.27.4.2
Cast
History of collections
The four original tablets now on display belong to the collection of the Congregation of the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary (SS.CC.) in Rome.
Apart from the Echancrée, which was given to Mgr Tepano Jaussen by Rapanui people in 1869, through the intermediary of Father G. Zuhmbohm, the other three were acquired by Father H. Roussel or Father G. Zuhmbohm in a narrow timeframe, between 1869 and 1870. The missionaries actively sought them out on the island. All of them joined the collection of Mgr T. Jaussen in Tahiti on October 13, 1870, before being sent to the Institut de France in 1887 and then to the Congregation's Mother House in 1888.
At the musée du quai Branly - Jacques Chirac, most cultural objects from Rapa Nui (Easter Island) arrived in France through the Franco-Belgian Métraux-Lavachery expedition (1934-1935). This scientific expedition coincided with others similar endeavours, the best-known of which probably is the Dakar-Djibouti expedition (1931-1933). The interdisciplinary team led by Swiss ethnologist Alfred Métraux and Belgian archaeologist Henri Lavachery spent 13 months in Rapa Nui. On their return, the collections joined those of the Musée d'Ethnographie du Trocadéro and the Royal Museums of Art and History in Brussels.
About these tablets
Measuring 164 km2, Rapa Nui is one of the last Polynesian islands to be colonized by humans, between 800 and 1200 AD. Located more than 3,000 km away from the coast of Chile to the east, and more than 2,000 km away Pitcairn to the west, Rapa Nui owes its uniqueness to this relative isolation, as well as to a number of environmental and historical factors that have been widely discussed in specialized literature. It has been a special territory of Chile since 1888. Depending on the disciplinary lense, researchers have described it as a prototype of the impacts of climate change, over-exploiting resources, as well as slavery, and violent colonial practices in the region. From a cultural point of view, however, Rapa Nui remains fundamentally Polynesian. The language spoken, the famous statues erected along the shores, the relationship with birds demonstrated by certain seasonal rituals, and the social hierarchy described by the first Europeans to visit the island, all explicitly echo what can be observed elsewhere, including in what is now French Polynesia.
About Rapa Nui (Easter Island)
Key dates
- 800 - 1200 AD: arrival of the first Polynesians
- 1722 - Jakob Roggeveen, a navigator employed by the Dutch West India Company, lands on the island on Easter Sunday and names it Paasch-Eyland (Easter Island)
- 1859 - 1863: at a time when depopulation of the island was already considerable, following previous contact with Europeans, slave traders from Callao in Peru raided the island and deported around 1,500 Rapa Nui inhabitants to the guano quarries of the Chincha Islands. This caused a major fracture in the transmission of cultural knowledge.
- 1864 - installation of the first permanent Catholic mission on the island.
- 1888 - annexation by Chile
BibliographY
- Ferrara, S., Tassoni, L., Kromer, B. et al., 2024, The invention of writing on Rapa Nui (Easter Island). New radiocarbon dates on the Rongorongo script. Sci Rep 14, 2794. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-024-53063-7
- Horley, Paul, 2021, Rongorongo: Inscribed Objects from Rapa Nui. Rapanui Press.
- Jaussen, Tepano (Mgr), 1886, L’île de Pâques ou Rapa Nui, histoire et écriture. Manuscrit conservé par la congrégation des Sacrés Cœurs de Jésus et Marie à Rome.
- Laurière, Christine, 2014, L’Odyssée pascuane. Mission Métraux-Lavachery, île de Pâques (1934-1935), Paris, Lahic-Ministère de la Culture et de la Communication.
- Orliac, Catherine & Orliac, Michel, 2008. Trésors de l’île de Pâques/Treasures of Easter Island. Éditions Louise Leiris/Éditions D.
- Orliac, Catherine, 2005, The "Rongorongo" tablets from Easter Island: botanical identification and 14C dating. Archaeology in Oceania 40 (3), pp. 115-119.
Key dates and bibliography
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